Wednesday, 29 March 2017

Wednesday 29th March: Sigüenza


 

Gentlemen out there, a word of advice, if I may:

 

If your wife says to you: “I want to stay in a castle” then the only correct response is “Yes, dear” and then you are to go and proceed to arrange the entire trip around staying in said castle.

 

It is a correct response because Sigüenza is, as the locals of Paso de Ocker say, “Bonza”.

 

We are staying at the Parador in Sigüenza which is a castle converted into a hotel and the result is beautiful.  Finding being cast into the dungeon and locked in chains at night for saying “Muy bien” when I should have said “Muy Bueno” a little harsh but it is a castle so am getting the authentic experience.  Breakfast of tomatoes delivered via missile to head while in the stocks was a little inconvenient but who am I to complain?

 

The patisseries here are so tasty and cheap, the pastries they sell even tastier.  Think it is time for 5 o’clock afternoon tea and wander the narrow cobbled streets again, this is such a great place.
Castle at Siguenza


Martha getting to stay in a castle

Martha with Siguenza Cathedral in background

Old guitar in a little guitar museum in Siguenza

28th March: Madrid to Sigüenza


Despite having spent two nights in Madrid, there has been little time and opportunity to see much of this vast city.  Been staying near the Madrid Chamartin train station which simplifies the travelling, but Chamartin is not near anything too much, essentially a business district.  Staying at the Hotel Weare Chamartin, which is convenient and fine, literally across a covered walkway from the train station.  The station is impressive, has a ground floor lobby level with many shops and then three levels below each with train lines going in all sorts of directions.

 

Our train to Sigüenza was booked for later afternoon so we had the morning free to go into Madrid centre.  Took the metro underground to Sol station and managed to not get lost.  I spent a couple of hours in the Prado museum (hundreds of pre-1900 paintings from many old masters), saw Raphael, Velasquez, Van Dyk, Rembrandt, Goya, El Bosco (Bosch) etc.  So many famous pictures, any one of which would have commanded a special exhibition at the Western Australian gallery.  Martha enjoyed a couple of hours wandering around and expertly navigating the tourist map, dodging street protest marches, gazing at the old buildings and occasionally looking for a bargain.

 

Train trip to Sigüenza was pleasant.  The train was a regional train and less formal than the train to Santiago as the seats were not allocated, and had no dining car etc.  I think the train left Chamartin with 10 people on it, though picked up some more later.  We had the whole carriage to ourselves.

 

Travelling by train, and bus, is relaxing and gives chance to see the scenery.  Realising that at least two of our trips (Madrid to Santiago, Madrid to Sigüenza) were return trips covering the same ground, I have formulated a very clever idea to avoid seeing the same scenery both ways.  All I need to do is to sit on the left side of the train going out to Sigüenza and then on the right hand side on the return.  That should do it ;-)

26th and 27th March: Santiago de Compostela, back to Madrid


 

More time here in Santiago, some sleeping in till late, going for drives and walks. 

 

Figured out what I was doing wrong with driving.  They all drive on the right hand side of the road here, not just a few of them, so realised that if you can’t beat them, join them.  By the time I gladly returned the hire car, only slightly broken (me, not the car), I think I had gained some sense of confidence with the driving.  Is not so much the mechanics (right hand on gear stick, sticking to the right hand side, rear view mirror to the right not the left) but that my sense of awareness of the road and traffic is completely absent, very much like learning to drive again.

 

We drove to Paso de Oca (pronounced “Ocker”), which was set up in the 1700s as a palace of refuge for half-broken Australian drivers.  The gardens were magnificent, with formal layouts, mazes made of camellia trees, hedges in the shapes of characters and animals, water features and ponds and streams.  Vegetable gardens and orchards all laid out in symmetrical patterns with hedge borders etc.

 
Paso de Oca - a corn store
 
Paso de Oca - Labyrinth
 
Paso de Oca - nice idea for my garden
 
Paso de Oca - one of many
creative hedge works


Eating here is good.  A common feature across all of Spain so far is a Menu de Dia which is a three course set menu with a choice of about 6 first plates, second plates and then dessert and or coffee, often with a bebida (drinkie).  The standard Spanish and Galician beer (cerveza) is a light and refreshing lager (e.g. Estrella Galicia).  The menus have some common meals and some local themes, which is helpful for me to interpret.  Tapas is also very common in most cafes and taperia but we haven’t quite figured out the best way of ordering these tasty little treats.  Found a good one in Sigüenza that seemed to understand our pointing and grunting and half a dozen Spanish words … but that gets ahead of the story, Sigüenza is later …

 

A drive and then a long walk to a waterfall near Santiago de Compostela was a nice time.  A very beautiful part of the world, wetter and greener than inland or southern Spain.  Galician is a different language, closer to Portuguese than Spanish, but being such a polyglot I find I can point and grunt in Galician also.

Waterfall - Fervenza do Toxa

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Monday was about saying goodbye to our hosts and making the train trip back to Madrid.  Our stay with Maria and Aaron and their lovely girls Gabriela and Elouisa, Maria’s parents Manolo and Ramona was such a treat.



Saturday, 25 March 2017

Saturday 25th March 2017: Santiago de Compostela

Another good day here in a lovely part of the world.




Took a drive up a winding road high in the hills overlooking the estuary, met some wild cattle on the way.  Also to the Castro de Baroña site, remains of an Iron Age village on the edge of the land touching the Atlantic Ocean.
Castro de Barona
 



Preparing Churrasco ... tasty!
Lunch at home was a treat with Maria's Mum and Dad putting on a traditional Churrasco meal of ribs and chorizo cooked over an open fire.  Home-made wine from own grapes, potatoes and salad from the garden.  Delicious.










Walked all the indulgence off with a long walk from home through the back of the village to another historic site on the coast, Castro de Neixón. 


Friday 24th March 2017: Santiago de Compostela - Maria and Aaron's!



Left Madrid Chamartin train station at 09:15 for Santiago de Compostela
 
Grey, cold day so far, a few snowflakes falling.  Chamartin is, from what I read, a business district of Madrid and not all that inviting. 

It is seriously snowing outside the train as I write this.  We are half way from Madrid to Santiago (Spain not Chile (I hope) … but there was that roundabout back there …) and the more it snows the more it goes on snowing.  Starting to wonder if we are heading for the North Pole instead.  Just passed Thule train station, have to look that up later where it is.  Is that Stumpy the mountain goat in the distance or a reindeer ….

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Lovely reception by Aaron, Maria and family.  Met their two sweet girls, Gabriela and Elouisa, Maria's Mum and Dad.  They live in Cesbon, a drive out of Santiago.


Walked around Santiago and saw the cathedral, the resting place (it is told) of St James the apostle - hence the name of the city.  More food, lots of it and very nice.


Picked up a hire car to drive home to Maria and Aaron's.  There was a small fault with the car but I didn't complain too much, with the steering wheel and pedals being on the wrong side.  Thought maybe because it was a Renault and they just wanted to be a bit different.  Hard to reach the pedals and steering wheel while sitting on the right-hand side but managed to make it work with a bit of a stretch.  Had to swerve to avoid a few cars as they have no idea about keeping to the left of the road.

Thursday 23rd March 2017: Granada to Madrid


A travelling day.

 

Left Granada by ALSA bus, this time in plenty of time and in the best seats at the front with a clear view of the drivers’ window.  Tips for future Spain tourists:  ALSA buses are good, comfortable and cheap.  Book seats 3 and 4 if you can.  You can book online.

 

Five hour bus trip to Madrid which was very enjoyable.  Started to snow getting close to Madrid after getting sunburnt in Granada two days before.  Through Don Quixote country, windmills and such – must read that book, how is it possible to have got to such an age and having never read a paragraph of it?


Olive trees ... everywhere and so many.  Whole mountains covered with them, an amazing site.
 

Bus terminated at Madrid Estacion Sur meaning a short local train to Madrid Estacion Chamartin.  We negotiated the ticket machine like a pro, then failed what would seem the relatively simple act of getting on the train.  Appears that if you are polite enough to let people off the train first and then jump up the steps to hurl your luggage on and don’t do this within 8.9 seconds (sure there must have been a man with a stop-watch) that they close the door on you, whether or not you are through the door.  Doesn’t matter if you are on the two steps leading to the open door.  Maybe the driver was late or hated people with suitcases or worn-off legs.  Who knows.  Fortunately we were not separated from either the luggage or each other.  Another 30 minute wait and this time the train doors opened for a sensible time.  Note to self:  If at all possible, do not take any luggage that cannot be carried on one’s back anywhere.

 
Arrived at Madrid Chamartin and found the hotel which was literally in an adjoining building.  Nothing fancy but super convenient.  Local area didn’t seem attractive for evening walks so had dinner in hotel and restful evening.  Some unknown logistical challenges satisfactorily negotiated today – taxi/bus/train/hotel.

Wednesday 22nd March 2017: Granada


Gleefully submitted our prized L’Alhambra tickets and walked both of our legs off, each for four hours.  Know how Stumpy feels.  L’Alhambra is a wonder, the tour in Spanish (English ones were all full) was not as enlightening as one could have been if I actually understood more than a dozen words but learned much using the eyes if not the ears.  There is a deliberate attempt to limit the impact of tourism on the old buildings by restricting the numbers.  A good balance I think, but we were fortunate to get a ticket.

 

Twice-gullible tourists persuaded by leaflet-handing girl to go to lunch at Tapas café, then walked in wrong door to have our leaflet gladly received by an opposing café and sat down to a similar but different menu.  Realised error after a little while and having ordered.  Food not very nice, left there feeling both guilty and cheated.

 

Visited the San Juan de Dios Basilica (very shiny).  Site of tomb of St John of God and relics etc.  Shiny, very shiny.  All that glittered was indeed gold.  Baroque/rococo masterpiece with all that is great and overdone about baroque, to my limited understanding.  Enormous detail and quality, hundreds of precious things.  Did I say that it was shiny?

 

Found a nice place at last for dinner and ate too much.  Best part of the meal was a free tapas plate (best because it was free, perhaps?) which had a very tasty goulash or similar.

 

Does it ever happen to you that something very good comes out of something bad?  Will try not to bore the reader here, but this story doesn’t bore me so I will tell in briefly.  Skip to the next paragraph if you start to snore.  There’s been some fun with buying things here, especially online.  What I realised now after I advised my bank that I was going overseas was that I needed to advise them that not only was I going overseas and I’d like my cards to work (which they do – sort of) but that I’d like to also do online purchases.  This means disabling a security feature of the banking where they will text you to confirm the validity of the transaction – a good feature but one that fails if overseas and unable to receive texts because I didn’t want to run the gauntlet of enabling overseas roaming.  Anyway, the boring story … I found I couldn’t make some payments for online purchases of train tickets, and also the Granada card which is what one should buy if wanting to go to L’Alhambra (ask me later).  In using a different card to buy a train ticket from Madrid to Hendaye, I did this successfully only to receive an urgent email from the booking company Petrabax that the bank had declined my previously successful transaction.  This was the bad thing … here’s the big fat silver lining in the cloud disguised as a blacker cloud:  once finalised, the purchase emailed me an e-ticket for the journey, but I then realised that I never received e-tickets for the four journeys I’d previously booked a month back.  Either they never came or went to junk, now unrecoverable after a month.  Bored yet?  I wasn’t, realising that I now had what was likely only a useless booking confirmation and no tickets.  Easy … we contact Petrabax … hard, they give a US number that looks like a 1800 number or something.  So … do I find a pay phone and sit on it for an hour waiting for someone in the US to tell me that they sent the tickets and I shouldn’t have lost them (when I never got them)?  There’s no published email address, no online chat help, the login portal shows the bookings but no way to print tickets, no way of contacting them in any way other than the US phone number … and we travel in 2 days.

 

But … here’s the shiniest part of the silver lining in the black cloud … the denied transaction that was at first successful caused Petrabax to write to me, and so I had a human on the end of an email piece of string.  A few polite words later via middle of the night emails and Voila! (that’s French for Voila so I’m told) I have e-tickets in my inbox.  Glad that didn’t bore you.

Tuesday 21st March 2017: Granada



Tour of Musea de San Juan de Dios.  Very, very good.  Had an English-speaking Art History student taking the two of us around the whole place and explaining much.  She was probably amused by my more than average interest in it.  The building was a house of a benefactor of the man John and took him in after he caught pneumonia helping rescue someone from drowning.  The room and bed where he stayed and then died are preserved in the museum.  Many other pieces of art and items to be seen, including the original portrait made a few years after his death.  Interesting to learn, me having been an employee of St John of God Health Care these last almost 20 years.  A good guy and understandable that a following grew around his example after his death.

 

Spent much time trying unsuccessfully to buy a Granada Card, eventually booked a ticket to L’Alhambra palace on the 09:00 Spanish tour!  Lucky I’d learned those five or six phrases.

 

More eating out … not too successful yet finding a really good place.  Local lager is refreshing and cheap.  Café con leche is good – think they make it with a double shot of good coffee and then a little milk added.

Monday 20th March 2017: Malaga to Granada


Breakfast at hotel, morning tourism in Malaga.  Visited Malaga Cathedral, Picasso museum which had about 100 Picasso works of painting, drawing and sculpture.  Liked the earlier Cubist paintings and a couple of the wacky sculptures.  The guy certainly can paint, so not sure why he stopped.

 

Made it to the bus station only just on time having miscalculated the walk, and caught what may have been the wrong bus!  Caused a little commotion in that our seats (nos. 1 & 2 of course, booked months ago) were occupied already by humans.  Thought that maybe the seat bookings were actually informal and my ten words of Spanish didn’t cover a conversation about bus seating protocol in Southern Andalusia, and so took two other seats.  When the occupants of those seats arrived there was a hurried shuffle of several humans (mostly us) and we were dealt after a thorough shuffling into two separate seats.  No idea if we were on the wrong bus (leaving coincidentally to the same place at correct time) or if two others took our seats or double-booked.  Nonetheless, a comfortable ride and took us to Granada (Spain not Peru).

 

Taxi to our accommodation at Smartsuites Albacin.  Very nice spacious, modern, self-catering apartment in the ancient town not far from the L’Alhambra, full of winding, narrow, cobbled streets.

 

Dinner out at one of the many Tapas cafes.  Very tasty marinated olives that even Martha liked.

Sunday 19th March 2017: European adventure begins




Flew (in an aeroplane – less tiring) from Norwich International Airport.  I like the title of the airport, makes it sound big and grand, which it happily isn’t.  Of all the airports I’ve been to, this would definitely be one of them.  So happy to be in queues of three or four not three or four hundred like those awful dark ends of the universe like Heathrow and Stansted, and to have a casual chat with the security guy while disassembling the hand luggage yet another time.  Arrived in Malaga (Spain not Western Australia) immediately after landing, took taxi from airport and then gave it back.  Stayed at the Eurostars Astoria hotel.

 

York



Always wanted to go to York.  While living in England in 2004 it was always just a little hard to get to, the solar-power car running out on the motorways to the north and all.  But this time, we made it.  What a wonderful town.  So many old buildings and the centre of town being essentially traffic-free, it was a lovely stay of three nights.  Amusing clever mistake of mine, I booked a guesthouse a little walk out of town for the night after the day we arrived.  Not only was this very clever forethought and arriving so punctually that we had 24 hours to slowly check-in but if we wanted the night prior to the one I book then we’d have to share a room with someone else, and that someone else didn’t like the idea so much.  Hence, the helpful man at the guesthouse used a magical screen he had where he could type in words and then the screen would show something different, and some pictures.  After a minute the man found a name and address of another guesthouse closer to town, which was free for both the current night and the next.  My clever error then switched us to a fantastic B&B for about the same cost, but within very short walking distance to the city walls, old abbey ruins, park, wild squirrels, York Minster (as opposed to the Yirk Monster what eats wild squirrels and leaves the place a Shambles), restaurants etc.  23 St Marys is the name of the venue if you ever get to York and book the wrong place for the wrong night.

 

Went to Evensong at the Minster, beautiful building, beautiful sung service with choir and organ.  Lots of places to eat.  Met up with Rachael Curry (daughter of Taunton friends) for dinner, went to the York Castle Museum which had a replica Victorian street as a highlight.

 

Back to Norwich in due course, this time via several of the many scary English motorways and A-roads.  Glad Martha drives, I contribute by sitting in the passenger’s seat worrying for the two of us and carefully getting us lost.  Works well, I take all the worry about the hundreds of lorries bearing down on us, roundabouts within roundabouts and fear of making wrong turns and sailing across the Atlantic, fear of failing bails off stumps any minute, fear of the solar panel running out, and so Martha doesn’t need to worry as I’ve done it all and she can just drive.

 

Last days in East Anglia saw a long day of roundabout and motorway negotiation to see cousin Joanne for a couple of hours at hospital, Auntie Pam and Uncle Vic provided a lovely lunch at their home in Harlow.  Pity to see them for such a short amount of time but very glad we caught up.

 

Dinner and happy shenanigans for St Patrick’s Day at the Acle Bridge Inn pub with Sheila and Jacqueline, and stay overnight at Auntie Jacqueline’s charming cottage.

 

Enjoyed making friends with cousin David and spouse Nuria, went for nice dinner at a local Indian restaurant eating traditional English food of Butter Chicken, pappadums etc.  Tasty!

 

First week and a bit: Family, friends, Norwich, Lincolnshire, York, eating and drinking too much.




Belated blog writing … sorry for the slackness and/or lack of motivation … but will make up for it here … will get some words in and add some pictures later.

 

Aunties Sheila and Jacqueline spoiled us very much and helped launch our little adventure. Based at Sheila’s we had a family lunch to catch up with many of the family, including Vicki and her man Rob who had travelled down from Leamington for the day.  Took several trips into Norwich City for pleasure and getting a few practical things sorted.

 

Got to a Canaries (Norwich City Football Club for those who don’t know) game where we drew 2:2 with Blackburn Rovers.  We let them get a couple of goals to encourage their fans who travelled so far.  Cameron Jerome was good – very fast and a dominating presence in the forward line.  An interesting game in that it immediately followed the sacking of their coach, due I guess to us being too friendly to the visitors over the last few months.  The mood of the crowd was subdued somewhat as we appear to be trying to be promoted back to the Premier League next year not this year.  Good game though even though we dropped our team down to 10 men after we scored the first goal so as to make it more fair.

 

Aunties spoiled us by shouting us a night away to Potter’s Resort at Hopton-on-Sea.  The town name is a little misleading and I’m going to write to them to say it should be Hopton-Right-Next-To-The-Sea.  Guess the old town sank and so they built a new one that stayed up.  There was a dinner and a show, then drinking cordial out of small glasses till it was time for morning tea in Perth.  Went to an antique shop in Harleston run by friends of Auntie Jacqueline’s and picked up a few treasures.  On way home popped in on the old church in Kirby Bedon village which was the place of Sheila and Colin’s wedding.

 

So much more ….

 

Met up with Steve and Claire (from Trull days 13 years ago) at the Norwich Parkun.  Now we have “Norwich ParkRun” on our proud list.

 

Morning church service in Norwich Cathedral on the Sunday; many wanders around town; Norwich Castle (museum); get parking fine L ; write appeal and get parking fine waived J - was it the 60 pound bribe I put in the envelope to get the 60 pound fine waived?; then we move adventures further afoot:

 

Drive to York via one-night stay in Boston (Lincolnshire not Massachusetts) and the Lincolnshire Wolds. 

 

When I say ‘drive’ I mean Martha drives.  You see, I was very generous in letting her drive all the time and we hired this nice 6 speed manual Vauxhall Astra (she loves gears so I got an extra one).  Leaving Monday afternoon we were only about halfway to York before dark and I was concerned that the solar battery on the car would run out and cut off the 6th gear so we stopped at Boston.  Boston was an interesting town because of the interesting things its interesting inhabitants were interested in, but also because a bunch of them set sail in the early 1600’s on a three-hour tour and made it to the other more famous Boston by making a wrong turn at the roundabout.  Luckily their boat was not solar-powered and they made it all the way across the waters just in time for the marathon.  The Arbella I recall was or wasn’t the name of the vessel and their story of fleeing religious persecution and intolerance, setting up life on the other side of the Atlantic is one worth a read. 

 

The big church in Boston is called the Boston Stump, so called because it was the site of the first game of cricket, using a very, very large ball.  Unfortunately the bails fell off and crushed three or four hundred wicketkeepers and so the game was subsequently banned for a few hundred years until they got the proportions correct and safer for the participants.

 

Next to the hotel wherein we stayed was a European deli, and had a chat with the proprietor who was from Latvia.  An interesting conversation where one thinks one thing and then you realise your assumptions are 180 degrees askew.  She told of the times when Latvia was part of the Soviet Union and there being big factories, and then after the collapse of the USSR and joining of Latvia to Europe, the factories closed down.  Her family moved to England to work and make a living.  What my completely wrong assumption was that I thought she was telling me that the big factories under the Soviets was a terrible thing, and so they wanted to get away from there, but actually the closure of the factories simply meant there was no work, so people moved to find work just to eke out an existence.  Gave a sobering perspective on the annoyance of me moaning that I have to go on the train to work each day, for my attitude toward people who are prepared to move countries and continents to improve their family’s lot.

 

After Boston, where we found the Stump closed as play didn’t start till 10, we drove through the Lincolnshire Wolds seeing some beautiful postcard villages, stopped at some postcard shops and bought some postcard lunch (tasted like cardboard), then drove over the Humber Bridge.  That’s one homboggin’ good big bridge.  Bought it too, for only less than two pounds, and the man said we could take it home later because there was no room in the back of the car.

 

Friday, 10 March 2017

First days in Norwich

No sign of our ancient pet goat unfortunately.


As our first base for the search we are enjoying the hospitality of my Aunt Sheila in Norwich.  As you will know, Norwich is famous for its football team The Canaries, after which they named the bird and the Canary Islands, dogs, all sorts of things due to their excellence and renown.  Currently the Norwich City Football Club is developing the skill levels of the other clubs in the second tier of the English league, known as the Championship.  They enhance the sport by letting other teams win sometimes but then showing how to really score goals (see 5-1 win against Nottingham Forrest a month back).  Looks like the plan is to stay in the Championship division for one more year so as to give it the greatest benefit before doing the same for the Premier League.


I have a ticket to the upcoming match vs Blackburn Rovers on Saturday, about which I am very excited.  Here's the proof:
Outside ticket office of Carrow Road stadium, Norwich




A first day here was spent mostly at Auntie Sheila's, then a second with a trip to the city on the bus, wander through some old streets, lovely lunch at the Wetherspoon's pub "The Queen of Iceni", where a very nice curry and excellent local beer was less than half the price of a lesser meal at a Perth pub.




Sheila and Martha in an old Norwich
street, see the ancient Dragon Hall
building behind.

Starting the search ... Perth to Norwich

Travelling adventure starts late afternoon Tuesday 7th March by flight to Norwich, England with short airport stops at Abu Dhabi and Amsterdam.


Martha and Kerensa at Perth Airport


Flights were comfortable as they can be with seating allowing an extra seat between us on the long trip from Perth to Abu Dhabi.  No real sleep on the long trip but felt fine, had airport stops of a couple of hours in both Abu Dhabi and Amsterdam.  Noted with only a little surprise how much English is now (ironically) the lingua franca of the world.  Abu Dhabi airport had all signs in English plus Arabic, Schiphol (Amsterdam) had only English and even the shop names were in English, not Dutch.








Here's a picture, not of a goat, but of a friendly camel who wandered into the Abu Dhabi airport: